There are 2 key points when you buy the kits There are separate kits for the left and right side. There are lots of sources for self adjusting kits. This list is a summary of what I have learned from posts in this forum as well as many other sources. It seems like 1963 was the year that many makes and models introduced this feature. My searches have confirmed that it is a very doable upgrade and applicable to many Ford vehicles as well as other brands during this period. They warp when hot.I have been doing research into the details of adding the self-adjusting brake function to my '57. I used 5/8" long shoulder wheel studs.Īs I mentioned earlier I still get a wheel shudder when the brakes get hot and I have put that down to the bad Chinese manufacturing of the casting. As mentioned in your thread when the wheel is on the car the wheel nuts hold it all together.Īlso be aware that the new brake drums are different in wall thickness from different manufactures, and you can get different length shoulders on the wheel studs so if you want to bur the shoulder over like the original one's make sure the shoulder length is long enough. I made the slots a little to wide which didn't burr much of the stud over, it did the job though and held the hub to the brake drum when the assembly is of the car. Before riveting the stud I set the hub and brake drum up in a lathe to take as much play out, then use the wheel nuts to tighten them together before riveting the studs one at a time. The next lot of dies that I will make will be better. I should of had it made a little harder as the one that I used to burr the studs over started to distort under the hammering. It slips over the stud and I place a drift on the back of the die and hammer it down. Here is a photo of the tool that I made up out of "K245" tool steel and then had it hardened to 55 Rc. Question is, this old original cable is fraying and needs replacing, i'll need four all 'round.ĭoes anywhere know where to get this slightly shorter self adjuster cable specific to a '63? Installed the old one, and bingo, all slack gone, self adjusting mechanism working. I dug the original cable out of the trash and compared it to the reproduction one I got from MAC's, it was shorter. I have been unable to get my cable sufficiently tight as a result." The cable in this kit is too long for 1963-1964. The popular Thunderbird place where I bought my cables has the same self adjuster kit (w/cables) for 1961-1962 Thunderbirds as it does for the 63-64. The 63-64 Thunderbird cable is 10 15/16" long while the other models mentioned have a 11 1/8" long cable. "According to the OEM 1960-1964 Factory Parts Manual, the self-adjuster cable for the 19 Thunderbird is shorter than the cable for the 1960-1961 Thunderbird and the 1960-1964 Ford cars. I remember reading something about incorrect cable sizes earlier and it apears I'm having exactly the same issue a user Jamramer found recently: Gave it another shot earlier, my adjuster spring wasn't installed correctly as you mentioned Raven, certainly helped get rid of a lot of slack. I will come back with my results and more nagging, thanks again all. It took some serious carbide de-burring to separate the original assembly in the first place. i'm hoping this to be the case as I can't see any way of permanently attaching the hub to the drum. They also said because the hub isn't mounted to the drum and that it's slightly loose when put together, I should install the hub first, then the drum over it, press on the brakes to 'center' the assembly, and then tighten down the lug nuts on the wheels. They at least warn you on the box with stickers saying "please have a machine shop turn these before installation" ready to install out the box my arse! And even with the drums being new, apparently they resembled triangles more than circles!. Raven despite the shop manual picture, based on the above threads, I believe my setup might actually be correct, although I will try the suggestion you made about the return spring installation.Īnd Karl, you've now given me something else to worry about! Although my local machine shop did raise this with me after turning both drums true without the hubs installed (somehow). I see that Jim pointed out last year that the primary shoe spring in question I have is actually correct as per this conversation: Secondly after some searching around the forum, it appears I may be beating a dead horse here. Hi guys, firstly thanks to all the tips and observations, I have much more to try out then I did before posting.
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